The Potato Underground — Discover the Goodness of America's Favorite Vegetable

By Walter Scheib (White House Executive Chef, 1994 – 2005)

Some of you may not know that the United Nations declared 2008 as the International Year of the Potato. Personally, I have to admit I was a little surprised until I found out why. Apparently the intent of the declaration was to raise awareness of the potato as a means to fight existing poverty and hunger throughout the world. It makes sense when you consider that the humble spud ranks as the fourth major food crop in the world after corn, wheat, and rice. Here in the U.S. we are very fortunate to have an abundance of the beloved potato.

Recently, I spoke at the U.S. Potato Board’s annual meeting where I met plenty of potato farmers and self professing potato lovers who are simply passionate about the tuber. It was inspiring to be around these folks. It caused me to think about several dinners where potatoes took a starring role when I was at the White House. For example, at the first Bush State Dinner that honored Mexican President Vicente Fox, I created a menu which included ingredients that were mutual to both the U.S. and Mexico. We served pepita-crusted bison with poblano mashed potatoes and fava-chanterelle ragout. The potatoes gave this dish a perfect comfort food profile.

In a house like the White House comfort food was always a welcome guest, especially with the first families. One of Chelsea Clinton’s favorite meals was a dish called the potato roesti (originally from Switzerland). For all intents and purposes I would describe it as a 3/4 inch high pancake size tater tot. The potato roesti is easy to make and great anytime of the day or night. Basically, you grate a pound of potatoes (yukon golds are beautiful in this dish) and season it with salt and pepper. Allow the juices to drain and then fry it up pancake style in hot cast iron pan with butter or olive oil until it is golden brown. You can serve your own roesti with poached eggs, a sprinkle of cheese, and fresh herbs.

If you would like to try the recipe I created for the Vicente Fox dinner, you can find it in my book, White House Chef.

PHOTOGRAPH BY KIYOMI

We read about a new potato book in this month’s Economist. Sounds like a good read for all you potato lovers out there!

Here’s the review from the March 1 issue of The Economist:

“ON THE face of it, John Reader’s new biography of the potato seems to have a silly title—“propitious esculent” is just a fancy way to say “helpful food”—and an even sillier subtitle. But that is because the virtues of the world’s fourth biggest food crop (after maize, wheat and rice) and its influence on world history are easily overlooked. “I used to take potatoes for granted,” the author writes. His aim is to discourage readers from doing likewise.

The key to the potato’s value lies in its high yield and its almost perfect balance of nutrients. Potatoes can produce more energy per unit area per day than any other crop, and it is possible (though tedious) to subsist on a diet of spuds and very little else.
First domesticated in the Andes, the potato was carried to Europe in the 16th century. At first Europeans were suspicious: the potato was variously thought to be an aphrodisiac, to cause leprosy or to be poisonous. But it slowly caught on as its merits in times of famine and war became apparent (it is more reliable than grain and remains hidden underground until harvested). By the late 18th century it was being hailed as a wonder-food—for the poor, at least. Marie Antoinette promoted potatoes by wearing their flowers in her hair.

People then started to worry that the potato was too popular, and that its abundance was causing an unsustainable increase in population. Exhibit A was Ireland, where the booming population subsisted almost entirely on potatoes. The danger of such dependency was starkly revealed by the Irish potato famine of 1845: at least a million people died, and another million emigrated.

Mr Reader’s tale ends with the modern efforts to understand the genetics of the potato, which could lead to more disease-resistant varieties. The propitious esculent, he explains, is likely to feature in the diets of space-farers who will have to grow their own food.
The all-potato diet will not appeal to all readers, but this accessible account embraces the latest scholarship and addresses the failings of previous works on the subject. Indeed the book, like the tuber it describes, fills a void: the spud now has the biography it deserves.”